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But I don't need to tell them what they know: If this were Mexico, there would
be a pueblito, rancho, or pozo every ten or fifteen miles that
would make sense out of the endless sweep of creosote flats which drift to the
horizon in every direction.But here, there is nothing but the remains of those
who died horribly from thirst, or went mad from the emptiness. I have seen it,
and I have wept at the sight of those images in my camera lens.
Sated by a small meal of frijolis, tortillas, and chilies, we start marching
again. But the hot air singes our parched throats, cracked lips, and blood-caked
nostrils with every breath. In hoarse voices, the men whisper of families and
home, as their footsteps crunch northward through cholla cactus, scorpions,
scalding rocks and ankle-burning sand. But it will only be a matter of time
before the desert takes each of us.
Guillermo is the first. In the parlance of Border Patrol trackers, he is about
to "go down." I aim the long black lens, burning my fingertips as I follow-focus
his deadly dance: He is limping across the desert in a pair of rubber shower
sandals. He is out of water. And he is falling hopelessly behind, lost in a
mirage of desperate hope. The motor-drive whirs. I must show his struggle, but
I must go back and help. The group stops suddenly; fear for their friend masks
their faces. They wait. They ply Guillermo with water. And, if need be, they
will carry him out of the desert - or die trying.
Guillermo slowly recovers, and we continue trudging across the desert floor
which hovers between 140 and 160 degrees Fahrenheit. The heat radiates through
the flimsy soles of our shoes, and we start draining the last of our water in
hopes of dousing the fire underfoot. But my water jug is the next to run dry
and, after my last swallow of hot putrid water, I fall behind. I have run ahead
of my companions too many times to photograph their struggle, and now I am spent,
and I am alone.
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