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Research Team
Relive the day's action and insights with daily journal entries, digital photos, audio reports and more. Select one of the teams below to visit their latest entry.

Field Team
Follow Pat O'Hara's search for the perfect moment in the national parks of the Eastern Caucasus. Eleanor O'Hanlon reports, with photos by Russell Sparkman.

Georgia veteran Peter Nasmyth returns to guide us into the history and heritage of the region. Denise Rocco captures it all in digital images.

April 29:
In Ancient Groves

April 28:
Batumi and Beyond

April 26:
Fly Tusheti Air

April 25:
An Image of Eden

April 24:
The Road of Friendship

April 22:
Patriarch of the Forest

April 21:
Monastery in the Desert

April 20:
Vashlovani Reserve

April 19:
The Living Pillar

April 18:
Preparing for the Journey

April 17:
Georgian Table

April 12:
Tbilisi Overview

Email Teams in Georgia


Previous Dispatch

On the road to Kazbegi the cloud parts briefly behind a medieval tower at the village of Sioni. But at Kazbegi, the magnificent 5047 metre hulk of rock, stunning so many travellers, just isn't there. It hides stubbornly behind cloud.

All we see is the picturesque Trinity Church above Gergeti village and slowly realize what the villagers always knew; there are two Kazbegis; one with the mountain, the other – Pushkin's, and ours – without.

Plainly the only place to see it today is at the Kazalikashvili Alpine museum - one of the best, least pretentious portrayals of man's fascination with rock and ice I've seen. And this time we are lucky. There Alexi Zazalikashvili, son of the museum's creator, invites us in. 'Yes, I've climbed the mountain – twice,' he says simply, 'and I've seen the Bethlehem chapel at 4100 metres.' He points to a spot on a photograph of the mountain, as if to a place of forgotten poetic significance.

I remember this moment as we drive on down the infamous Daryal Gorge - setting for so many Romantic poems, and inspiration for Lermontov's extraordinary 1839 novel 'Hero of our Time' – probably the book that bought me to Georgia.

Next Dispatch

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Ossetian Toast

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