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Research Team
Relive the day's action and insights with daily journal entries, digital photos, audio reports and more. Select one of the teams below to visit their latest entry.

Field Team
Follow Pat O'Hara's search for the perfect moment in the national parks of the Eastern Caucasus. Eleanor O'Hanlon reports, with photos by Russell Sparkman.

Georgia veteran Peter Nasmyth returns to guide us into the history and heritage of the region. Denise Rocco captures it all in digital images.

April 29:
In Ancient Groves

April 28:
Batumi and Beyond

April 26:
Fly Tusheti Air

April 25:
An Image of Eden

April 24:
The Road of Friendship

April 22:
Patriarch of the Forest

April 21:
Monastery in the Desert

April 20:
Vashlovani Reserve

April 19:
The Living Pillar

April 18:
Preparing for the Journey

April 17:
Georgian Table

April 12:
Tbilisi Overview

Email Teams in Georgia


Previous Dispatch

For us other uncertainties hang in the air. The border between Georgia and Ossetia was closed due to the Chechen war, but below spring continues to works its wonders.

The banks of the Aragvi River carry a new, limpid green carpet. Brilliant blossoms of cherry, apricot, peach ignite like lamps among the woodlands.

As our jeep prepares for the 1500 meter climb, we decide to do the same, stopping to re-fuel on mountain food – "khinkhali." A short drive later we halt again beside a row of surreal totem-poles carrying white woolly balls. Cheerful, head-scarved ladies hail us from nearby huts. "Come here! You will look beautiful! Only ten lari!" The woollen balls turn out to be "papakhi" traditional mountain hats, able to transform its wearer into an instant Caucasian bandit for just $5.

Next to the tourist-pleasing hats, hand-knitted socks embroidered with bright coloured crosses give clues to cultures once thriving beyond the steep road. The Khevsurs and Pshavs now hang by threads onto their cultural continuity, but are already transforming these beautiful, pre-Christian patterns into tourist novelties – mostly for us now, not themselves.

Next Dispatch

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Landscape Near Kazbegi

Mt. Kazbegi

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