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Field Team
Relive the day's action and insights with daily journal entries, digital photos, audio reports and more. Select one of the teams below to visit their latest entry.

Follow Pat O'Hara's search for the perfect moment in the national parks of the Eastern Caucasus. Eleanor O'Hanlon reports, with photos by Russell Sparkman.

Research Team
Georgia veteran Peter Nasmyth returns to guide us into the history and heritage of the region. Denise Rocco captures it all in digital images.

April 29:
In Ancient Groves

April 28:
Batumi and Beyond

April 26:
Fly Tusheti Air

April 25:
An Image of Eden

April 24:
The Road of Friendship

April 22:
Patriarch of the Forest

April 21:
Monastery in the Desert

April 20:
Vashlovani Reserve

April 19:
The Living Pillar

April 18:
Preparing for the Journey

April 17:
Georgian Table

April 12:
Tbilisi Overview

Email Teams in Georgia


Previous Dispatch

From: Eleanor O'Hanlon
Vashlovani Nature Reserve
April 20, 2000

Vashlovani Nature Reserve

The days are long and the nights are short – this is my first chance to write, in the purple-gray light before dawn. We have no electricity, only the faint glow of the setting moon, and torchlight next to the blue shimmer of the computer screen.

It was very late last night when we arrived here at Vashlovani. In a few hours the sun will rise over magnificently eroded mountain slopes and canyons. Georgia is prodigal with its marvels, and the last two days have been densely packed with images, sensations, encounters.

Before we go to Vashlovani, we must see something special, says director Paata Khumarashvili when we arrived at his office in Dedoplis-Tskaro – was it two days ago? He leads us on a bone-rattling car ride up a steep forested slope to the very top where a tall ridge of limestone coils between the trees. It stretches its long back like a snake, then lifts to form a tall white pinnacle of rock soaring above our heads, capped with the remains of an ancient fortress. "Khornobuji," says Paata. The City of the Sun.

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SLIDESHOW: Day on the River

A ride in the dark.
(43 sec)
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ride.wav (PC)

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Border Guard

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