You feel a history of avalanches and calamities, small figures galloping along ridges, burning fires in watch towers, all compressed into this single cry. It carries a clear threat, the shout of danger, delight and pride all rolled into one. It is also a fundamental ingredient in Georgia's survival as a culture, part of a unique and very ancient system of polyphony recorded as far back as the Greeks.
And the words?
'To long life!' shouts back Nana, my table companion.
I down another full glass of wine and pray I'll make it to the morning.