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Research Team
Relive the day's action and insights with daily journal entries, digital photos, audio reports and more. Select one of the teams below to visit their latest entry.

Field Team
Follow Pat O'Hara's search for the perfect moment in the national parks of the Eastern Caucasus. Eleanor O'Hanlon reports, with photos by Russell Sparkman.

Georgia veteran Peter Nasmyth returns to guide us into the history and heritage of the region. Denise Rocco captures it all in digital images.

April 29:
In Ancient Groves

April 28:
Batumi and Beyond

April 26:
Fly Tusheti Air

April 25:
An Image of Eden

April 24:
The Road of Friendship

April 22:
Patriarch of the Forest

April 21:
Monastery in the Desert

April 20:
Vashlovani Reserve

April 19:
The Living Pillar

April 18:
Preparing for the Journey

April 17:
Georgian Table

April 12:
Tbilisi Overview

Email Teams in Georgia


Previous Dispatch

We arrive at our Nana Gerasimova's house to find a table duly covered with khajapuri (cheese bread); lobio (spicy beans); baje (a delicious walnut sauce flavored with coriander, saffron and garlic); and numerous pkhali's (vegetable plates), just to mention my vegetarian favorites. Everything sparkles with the brilliant red of pomegranate seeds.

And we're in for another treat. Sitting at the end of the table are four members of the Ensemble Tbilisi male choir. Our tamada (toastmaker) raises his drinking horn and welcomes us with the traditional first toast when strangers sit at a table: "To our friendship!"

In turn we down our drinking horns to the bottom. You have to of course, as the devious Georgians know these ibex horns, or khantsi, won't stand on a table top.

Then suddenly comes a blast of sound from the far end of the feast. Four bold male voices ring out in a three-part harmony chorus. I feel as if my hair is streaming backwards. The torrent of sound fills the room with a far stronger effect than the wine. A full throated cry of blood and passion suddenly brings Georgia's huge, white, looming mountains right to the table edge.

Next Dispatch

The Ensemble Tbilisi

Impromptu chorus from the Ensemble Tbilisi

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